Eat
Due to the fact that Thessaloniki remained under Ottoman rule for
about 100 years more than southern Greece, it has retained a lot of its
Eastern character, including its culinary tastes. Spices in particular
play an important role in the cuisine of Thessaloniki, something which
is not true to the same degree about Greece's southern regions.
Greeks consider Thessaloniki a gourmet city - but bear in mind that this
refers to the excellent local specialities and cheap-and-cheerful ouzo
taverns rather than to haute cuisine or a range of foreign restaurants.
The latter are best avoided in Thessaloniki.
Sweets and pastries
For any traveler to Thessaloniki, a Greek will usually mention how
they expect you to bring back sweets from the city, as it is known for
having some of the best in the country. Throughout Thessaloniki anyone
can find a variety of places that sell:
Tsoureki, a plaited sweetened bread, deserts such as
Baklava and
Galaktoboureko; and
Bougatsa,
the most famous pastry of Thessaloniki, with cream (sweet) or cheese
(savoury) filling, which was invented in the city and has spread around
other parts of Greece and the Balkans as well.
Some shops, where you can find the best sweets and pasties the
city has to offer, include "Nikiforou" on Venizelou street, "Terkenlis"
famous for its
Tsoureki and "Chatzis" famous for its
Baklava, but fame has not made it any better - it has become overpriced and not as good as in previous years.
- Chatzis is famous for its collection of Greek Asia Minor sweets (politika glyka) originating from Istanbul.
- Terkenlis is famous for its variety of "tsoureki", a sweet bread much like
brioche but containing spices too, covered and filled with several
combinations of chocolates/creams/nuts, etc.
- Elenidis is considered the expert in "trigona" (triangles made of sfoglia, filled with cream).
Meats
For a carnivore's treat, places that serve,
Gyros and
Souvlaki
with pork and chicken, are scattered all around the city. This is the
best calories per money option, since with less that 3 euros you get a
meal that, although not that healthy, can keep you going for many hours.
Some of the best souvlaki meals at very affordable prices can be found
at a place called "Derlicatesen".
Local specialities include
Soutzoukakia, minced meat
pellets that are either grilled (at the central market or rotisseries)
and topped with chilli pepper flakes, or cooked in tomato and cumin
sauce (Smyrna-style); and
Patsas, a tripe soup, best tried late at night (or early morning).
For seafood, in Thessaloniki you can find
Gemista kalamarakia (Stuffed squids),
Mydopilafo (rise with mussels) or
Mydia saganaki (mussels in tomato sause).
Fast food and snacks
- The traditional fast food of Thessaloniki includes sandwiches with Gyros (pork meat), Souvlaki or Soutzoukaki, offered in many stores for a little over €2.
- Goody's. is
the Greek fast-food chain, actually preferred by Greeks over other fast
food restaurants such as McDonalds. There you can find classic
hamburgers, also Gyros, pasta, and salads.
- Crepes can be found in many stores all around the city.
The best can be found at Gounari street, near Navarinou square, that is
popular with the city's student population.
- During the winter you can try roasted chestnuts (Kastana in Greek) that are sold from carts.
- During the summer one can buy boiled or roasted corn on the cob that is sold from carts, which cost €1-2.
- You can try Stafidopsomo, a small bread with raisins, or Koulouri a donut-shaped small bread with sesame. You can find them sold in bakeries or on carts, costing around €0.5.
- For breakfast Bougatsa, can be found in nearly every
pastry shop around the city and can be accompanied with a cacao milk or
coffee. Prices range from €1.8 - €2.3, for a plate of Bougatsa.
Budget
| This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:
|
| Budget |
Under €15
|
| Mid-range |
€15-€20
|
| Splurge |
€20-€30 and upwards
|
Most tavernas and restaurants located all around the city of
Thessaloniki offer very affordable prices. Most can be found
concentrated in areas listed below, that also serve as points of
interest for any traveler into the city, where you can experience a
lively atmosphere at night with the local population.
Ladadika
Thessaloniki's Ladadika borough is a particularly busy area in
regards to Thessalonian cuisine, with most tavernas serving traditional
meze
and other such culinary delights. Right next to the port and around
Morichovou square, it is full of restaurants, bars and nighclubs.
- Ellinikon, Ladadika (Morichovou Sq.). Offers 'appelation d'origine' local delicacies. edit
Athonos Square
The area between Athonos square and Aristotelous street is full of
taverns of which many are frequented by mostly young Greeks and
tourists. Prices are usually low and the quality can vary greatly from
tavern to tavern. Several restaurants have a small band playing local
live music. Better to move around before sitting to eat, not only to
choose the place, but to take a look at the old shops in the area
selling fruit, spices, handmade small furniture etc. Many of the taverns
in the area are tourist-traps, so choose a tavern where you see locals
and preferably older people.
- Vrotos, (Near Athonos). Ouzo restaurant (ouzeri). 25% more expensive than others in this region, but top quality.
Bit-Bazaar and nearby streets
During the day the area hosts antique shops and cheapjacks selling
anything useful or useless one can imagine. In the evening it turns into
a lively (and noisy) student hang-out and can get very crowded on warm
nights. Most of the shops offer cheap wine, ouzo, beers and
Mezedes, appetizers that accompany your
Ouzo or
Tsipouro with a battery of small dishes - by far the best way to eat in Thessaloniki.
Ionos Dragoumi
Agora, (Off Ionos Dragoumi). Ouzo restaurant (ouzeri) in one of the most interesting old downtown areas
Kastra (Ano Poli)
At Ano Poli (also called Old Town and literally the Upper Town), the
heritage listed district north of Thessaloniki's city center, many
quality restaurants can be found next to the Byzantine walls, and some
with views overlooking the city.
Tsinari (Ano Poli)
An old district of Ano Poli hosting the eponymous tavern, along with some others.
Mid-range
- Pire kai vradiazei (Πήρε και βραδιάζει), Omirou 7 (Off Theagenio Hospital). Great Taverna, unique style, good food and some days (Thur-Sun) live music
- Tombourlika (Τομπουρλίκα), Navmachias Limnou 14 (Off Vardaris Sqare), ☎ +30 2310 548193. Great traditional ouzeri, with fresh fish and meat dishes and live rembetico music
- Tsarouchas (Τσαρούχας), Olymbou 78 (Off Ancient Forum). all night and morning open. is
for those of you with adventurous tastes, preferably to go after a hard
night's drinking, for a "patsás" (tripe) soup - a delicious way to
prevent a hangover.
- Toicho-Toicho, Polydorou 1 (Ano Poli (Kastra)). An hipster hang-out, nice atmosphere, very expencive for the quality provided
- Kamaras, (Near Rotonda). Great traditional dishes.
- Lila Cafe Bistro, Diogenus 23 (Ano Toumba district), ☎ 30 2310 947377. Traditional
pies and sweets, croissant and dishes accompany the coffee or your
drink. Porcelain miniatures and collective drinks are available for
originally gifts.
- Pizza da Pepe, Stefanou Tatti 10 (side street of Egnatia, near the Aghia Sophia Church), ☎ +30 2310 242407. For the best pizzas in town head here.
- Myrsini, (behind the State Theatre Etairia Makedonikon Spoudon). Good Cretan restaurant.
- Apo Dyo Horia, (Navarinou Square). Cretan and Pontian restaurant. Here, order raki rather than ouzo or tsipouro.
Splurge
- Odos Aristotelous (Lepen), Odos Aristotelous. Most Salonicans know it as the "Lepen"
- Krikelas, Ladadika (near Morichovou Sq.).
- Zythos-Dore, (White Tower Square). An upmarket brasserie with a wide range of specialties and interesing ambience.
Drink
Thessaloniki has a very active nightlife scene and only recently it
is starting to become exposed internationally, with Lonely Planet
listing Thessaloniki as the world's fifth-best "ultimate party city".
Cafe-bars are scattered throughout the entire city, which create a
lively atmosphere everywhere you step and you can have a drink whenever
you want, while trendy bars line up along Thessaloniki's entire
waterfront from the old port, along Nikis avenue and down to "Krini", a
southeast coastal district of the city.
Thessaloniki also offers a wide variety of nightlife, from small
to huge nightclubs with dance music, bars dedicated to rock music, jazz
clubs and
Bouzoukia, where you can experience Greek music and
dancing. Large entertainment venues of the city include Pyli Axiou and
Mamounia, at Vilka (which are housed in converted old factories). During
summer, one can also find beach bars with lively music and serving
drinks throughout the whole day and night, located at the city's
southeast suburbs. The city's most known nightlife district is
"Ladadika", there together with the many tavernas and restaurants, you
will find the most known nightclubs and bars housed in old warehouses
next to the port, while in the area around the Kamara (the Arch of
Galerius) is home to many cheaper cafe's and bars, popular with the
city's student population. Areas were most of Thessaloniki's nightlife
is located at are listed below.
Aristotle Square (Aristotelous)
Being the center of the city, some of the most popular cafes and bars
are located there. One can find quiet cafes or noisy ones that usually
preferred by younger people. Breakfast is also served, some restaurants
are also available.
Nikis avenue
Thessaloniki's central seafront avenue is full of cafeterias usually
crowded around the clock, available for coffee in daytime and beer or
drinks at night. Many bars also feature balconies with views towards the
sea.
Ladadika district
At the west side of the center lies the picturesque district of
Ladadika
(meaning: oil stores). Named this way by the many stores selling oil
arriving from the adjacent port of Thessaloniki. Formerly a notorious
district, it is today the city's most lively and vibrant areas, were
renovated old stone build warehouses host some of the most known
nightclubs with all sorts of music, including traditional Greek
bouzoukia. Although not the favorite by Thessaloniki’s highest class
(modern bouzoukia are not considered a classy kind of entertainment),
they are definitely worth a visit for any traveler. Delicate restaurants
and Greek taverns serving drinks are located around Morichovou square,
and are also popular during lunch time.
Proxenou Koromila St
Parallel to the seafront Nikis avenue is Proxenou Koromila street and
at night many cafes and bars spill out on to the streets. A few trendy
jazz clubs can be found here.
Iktinou pedestrian
Another place in the city with cafes, bars and a couple of
restaurants, that spill out onto pedestrianized streets. A popular
hangout by many Thessalonians.
Aretsou
Aretsou is located in the southeast part of the city, in the suburb
of Kalamaria. Home to high end bars, cafés and entertainment venues,
most notably on Plastira street, along the coast; featuring loud music
and hosting many young people.
Karabournaki
A place in Kalamaria with delicate bars, restaurants and pizzerias.
All of them along Sofouli street, right next to the seashore and nearby
the Thessaloniki Concert Hall. "Shark", one of the most exclusive
nightlife venues of the city is also located in this area with views of
the sea and central Thessaloniki.
Boat bars
For a drink on a boat, there are many "floating bars" that depart
every 2hrs or so from the White Tower, and make a short trip around
Thermaic Gulf, where you can enjoy evening and late night views of the
city. Most of them play ethnic and alternative foreign music.
Mylos and Vilka
A set of high-range café, bars, restaurants, ouzeris some with live
music located at the city’s west. Also hosting concerts, events,
exhibitions, music bands, famous greek artists etc.
Valaoritou and Syggrou
Over the last 2 years a lot of Thessaloniki's nightlife has moved in
these areas of the city center. The old industrial center has become a
place for entertainment for everybody, with many bars, clubs and cafes
that may remind you of Berlin, or London.
Prices
A beer in Thessaloniki costs €4-6, an alcohol drink €7-10 and a coffee around €2.50-5.
